A Boxing Day special with a piquant punch

Along with the trimming of the tree, the four-hour long Christmas-morning gift opening ritual and the carols played by my sister on our old upright piano, one of the most stable memories of my childhood Christmases is that of my mother bursting into tears on Boxing Day.\nFor the unacquainted, Boxing Day is Dec. 26. It originated in England in the middle of the 19th century under Queen Victoria and became a holiday during which boxes were filled with gifts and money for servants and tradespeople. It is still celebrated in Britain, Canada and other Commonwealth nations and is typically spent with family, friends and the sharing of plenty of good food and cheer.\nMy Winnipeg-born and bred mother annually felt compelled to make Boxing Day a memorable fete for at least 50-75 of our friends and neighbors. While Christmas was always a lazy day in our house, centered on bonbons and new books by the fire, Boxing Day was an all action adventure. From the crack of dawn, vacuums roared, mixers whirred and the detritus of the day before was crammed inside every available inch of drawer, closet and cupboard space.\nThe strain of balancing the roles of working mother, Santa Claus, maid, caterer and hostess extraordinaire, all with three little kids in tow, inevitably culminated in Mom's tears of exhaustion. But with several hugs from us kids, a few kisses from Dad and ample fortification provided by multiple, potent cups of Earl Grey tea, she was soon recharged and primed for the final acts of party preparation.\nAnd every year was an extraordinary party. At the center of the seemingly infinite varieties of culinary treats was a magnificent slab of English spiced beef, surrounded by a panoply of pickles, chutneys and paper-thin triangles of rye and pumpernickel bread. The recipe was passed down from my maternal grandmother. The instructions offered no shortcuts. Come the first of December, a 15-pound roast must be rubbed with a dizzying array of spices ranging from cloves to salt-peter, then sealed in an enormous bowl for a month's worth of "development" to be ready for Boxing Day.\nThe morning of the 26th, the aromatic beef was slow-roasted for 2-3 hours. The majestic effect was a spice-crackled, blackened crust, carved to reveal a succulent pink interior so tender it crumbled. Leftovers made ambrosial sandwiches, but only a few scraps typically survived the Boxing Day revelry.\nMy final recipe of the semester is very loosely inspired by my spicy memories of Boxing Days past. The month-long preparation has been reduced to 20 minutes, but this particular combination of spices delivers the same piquant punch, just right for shocking your taste buds out of a sugar-induced lethargy. It is not for the faint of heart or of palate, but why not be bold for holidays?\nMADRAS SPICY BEEF (or VEGETARIAN LENTIL) ORZO\n1 pound extra lean ground beef (see vegetarian option below)\n2 tablespoons minced garlic\n1 and 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger\n1 generous pinch red pepper flakes (or to taste)\n1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)\n2 and 1/2 teaspoons curry powder\n8 ounces orzo (rice-shaped) pasta\n2 cups canned beef broth\n1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained\n1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro\nSaute beef in a heavy large skillet until cooked through, breaking up with back of spoon, about five-six minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer beef to bowl.\nReduce heat to medium. Add garlic, ginger and chili to same skillet and saute two minutes. Add cardamom, curry powder and orzo and stir to one minute. Add broth and bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook until orzo is tender and most of broth is absorbed, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking on bottom of skillet, about 15 minutes. Return beef to skillet and mix in.\nSeason to taste with salt and pepper.\nMound pilaf on large platter. Garnish with tomato and cilantro and serve. Makes four servings.\nVEGETARIAN OPTION: Substitute 1 and 1/2 cups cooked lentils for the groundbeef and vegetable broth for the beef broth.