A taste of summer in December

I am rarely ready to relinquish warm weather. I shiver over the grill for a few more barbecues, crank up the heat so I can sit around in shorts, or, alternatively, swath myself in fleece to relish my freezer's final Popsicles. So despite my yearnings for hearty stews and casseroles to ward off the evening chill, this warm weather spell has me sneaking tastes of summer into my December evening meals. My favorite fragrant reminder is cilantro.\nI need look no farther than my best friend, who painstakingly extracts all traces of cilantro from her Mexican and Thai meals, to know that not everyone shares my affection for cilantro. I strongly urge a reconsideration. Cilantro's citrusy, biting tang is a satisfying solution for bridging the transition from summer to fall.\nCilantro is a relatively recent arrival to American kitchens despite being cultivated by many other cuisines for thousands of years. It originated in the southern reaches of the Mediterranean and has been found in Egyptian tombs dating back 3,000 years. It is even mentioned in the Bible in Exodus 16:31, where manna is described as "small round and white like coriander seed." The ancient Hebrews originally used cilantro root as the bitter herb in the symbolic Passover meal. \nThanks to the Romans and their conquests, cilantro's use and legend spread to Europe and Asia, where it appeared in recipes for potions used as aphrodisiacs in China during the Han dynasty (207 BC-200 AD). The Romans themselves used ground coriander seed with cumin and vinegar as a preservative that they rubbed into meat. Both fresh cilantro and its ground seeds are now integral components of multiple cuisines, from Southeast Asia to South America to Northern Africa.\nOne confusing aspect of cilantro is its multiple aliases. But whether a recipe calls for Chinese parsley, Mexican parsley, fresh coriander or cilantro, know that it is all the same herb. Conversely, ground coriander, made from the dried seeds of the plant, is entirely different in taste and is not interchangeable. \nCilantro can be purchased year-round in most supermarkets for about a dollar. Look for bunches with a fresh green, lively color. Avoid yellow or brown tipped leaves and rinse only when ready to use. To store, gently dry any supermarket moisture off of the leaves with paper towels or a dishcloth, then wrap in a paper towel before placing it in a plastic food bag and refrigerating it. \nThe richness of pumpkin is a fine foil for cilantro. Pumpkin always signifies late fall for me and since it is also cheap, low calorie and loaded with good nutrition, I incorporate it into a host of cold-evening recipes. Some people may look at the soup recipe and say that because it is so simple, it is almost cheating. Other people, like me, are always looking for something easy and wonderful. For the worn out and fainthearted, the soup is a delicious restorative.\nThe overtaxed can pass on the cilantro pesto and add a few chopped cilantro leaves instead. But if three minutes can be spared, the pesto is well worth making. With no cheese, a small amount of nuts, and a citrus twist, it is quite different from traditional basil pesto. It is a tasty and inexpensive antidote to the finals-week frenzy, and a great way to use up leftover cilantro purchased for another dish. \nSANTA FE STYLE PUMPKIN SOUP \n1 15-ounce can pumpkin\n2 and 1/2 cups canned chicken or vegetable broth\n1 16-ounce jar thick and chunky salsa\n1 and 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin\n1 recipe cilantro pesto (recipe below) OR 1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves\nIn a medium saucepan, whisk together the pumpkin and broth; stir in the salsa and cumin. Cook over medium-low heat until heated through, about 8 minutes. Season with salt & pepper to taste. Ladle soup into bowls and swirl in a tablespoon or two of the pesto. Makes 4 servings.\nCILANTRO PESTO\n1 clove garlic, minced\n1 cup tightly packed cilantro leaves\n5 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 tablespoons roasted peanuts\njuice and grated zest of 1 large lime\nPlace all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender; process until smooth, adding a small amount of water if necessary. Season with salt & pepper. Can be stored, covered in refrigerator, up to 2 days. Makes about 1 cup. (Note: leftovers can be stirred into rice, couscous or noodles, or used as a spread for crackers or vegetables)