It ain't easy living in the 'Big Easy'

En route to New Orleans there is a layover in Houston. \nIt is a fitting stop at the city who opened its arms to New Orleans in her hour of need. The devastation from Katrina can be felt in the Houston Airport, hundreds of miles away from the Crescent City. Waiting to board the plane, one has to wonder how many people on the flight may be returning for the first time since Katrina. How many are returning to rebuild their homes? How many on the flight no longer have a home to return to? \nCNN News can be heard over the noisy terminal. \nRay Nagin has been re-elected to serve a second term as mayor of New Orleans, just in time for the start of hurricane season. CNN reports that this season is predicted to be very active and could be difficult for the Gulf Coast areas still recovering from the storms of 2005. \nThe clock ticks as the levees in New Orleans are still not ready to handle a strong storm surge. \nOn the first day working in the Upper 9th Ward of the city, W. J. Simmons introduces himself with a tired smile and a hopeful face. He lost his wife in the weeks before the storm, then Katrina came to take his neighborhood and with it the lives of two more close friends. Two small trees his wife planted before her death remain rooted firm in the front of the house. With pride he comments on the beauty of the tested plants. \nMost of the homes in the area do not have insurance to cover the damage, and the homeowner cannot afford to rebuild without the help of volunteers. When asked what he thinks about the volunteers flooding in from all over the country, Simmons said, "That's what we need; a mix of people from everywhere, just like a pot of gumbo, a little bit of everything." \nSimmons' fortitude seems to inspire those around him. \nThe 8th ward, 9th ward, Lakeview and New Orleans East areas of the city took the worst damage. Every few days a new group comes in to help. For most, this is their first time in the city. To give the volunteers a feel for New Orleans, traditional food is prepared and trips out to listen to music are organized. That is where the soul of the city lives. \nTipitina's is a great venue for music uptown. The Rebirth Brass Band is what brings the crowds in on this night. Rebirth is performing for its 31st year. The band is made up of 15-30 members, depending on the night and the size of the venue. Family and friends dance and sing near the stage. The music has survived through much turmoil and is still breathing strong. \nAs the brass roars into the night, one of the lead band members grabs the microphone. He begins to sing to the crowd. \n"This is the home of Louis Armstrong, and the Superdome, Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras and that Creole Soul." He quiets the band and looks at the crowd. \n"No, no, no. Ya'll need to understand this. This is New Orleans ... we gotta bring it back ya'll." \nThe music begins again and doesn't end until the early morning. \nSitting among friends at a graduation party, the conversation eventually turns to the storm; it always comes back to Katrina. Everyone has a story. Some left, and a few stayed. Most slept on couches and floors for weeks -- some still do. Many lived in Houston for months; some made it back into the city days after the evacuation. Some could not bear to watch the news coverage, some kept themselves glued to the screen. Everyone has a brother, sister, cousin or grandparent who lost everything. Many people lost everything; however, many people returned. \nSome never will. \nNo matter what, no one will be the same. But through the spirit of those like W. J. Simmons, and the spirit and energy of the culture, the city's essence will endure.