Louisiana delicacy adds continuity to reconstruction

New Orleans lives and dies by the water that holds the city in a crescent. \nWe go down Magazine Street towards the Big Fisherman seafood shop, crawfish season is almost over; a few more pounds has to last until next spring. "How many pounds?" The girl behind the counter asks me in her thick accent. I don't know ... five, six, seven? \nSeven pounds should work. \nWe head to the banks of the Mississippi. A tugboat is chugging along, pushing a barge into the docks, helping fuel the economy. \nWe sit back in the shade and enjoy a little break from the soaking heat that drowns you like the spice from some Creole Etouffee. \nThe easy flowing river reflects the moods of New Orleanians before Katrina. At present, everyone is busy rebuilding and free time here is more precious than it has ever been. The unique lifestyle that defined the city was almost taken away, so now people make sure to appreciate every moment of leisure. As one man said "You got to go out and enjoy (New Orleans), who knows how long it's going to be around." \nOn this afternoon crowds of people join on the banks of the muddy river, grilling food, playing music, dancing and recalling stories with friends. For a moment, everyone takes a break from the storm that emptied the city and remembers why he or she came back. \nThe bag of Crawfish sits between us; the smell from the spice puts water in my eyes as I dig in. Many people come to the city wanting a traditional New Orleans meal but shy away from the beady eyed crawfish as the locals break them in half, sucking the head for flavor, and pinching the tail for the meat. \nBefore heading to a crawfish broil, there are a few things to know. \nFirst off, to get to the meat and spice you have to rip off the tail. Now the next and most difficult step for people new to crawfish is sucking the head. To blend in, look confident and don't fret, it is the best part of the meal. The seafood shops with the best-spiced product will bring in crowds every season. To get the meat out it is best to peal off a layer of the shell and pinch the tail. Now you can enjoy some of the best protein the muddy Louisiana water has to offer. \n"Jambalaya, Crawfish Pie-ah, Filet Gumbo 'cause tonight I'm gonna see my ma cher a mi-o..." as the old bayou tune makes clear, food defines the culture of the state. \nCrawfish are a good example. It's unique to the region, it has history, it comes from the water where the Big Easy rests and, most of all, it is a social meal. People gather around the crawfish pot with family, friends and strangers, enjoying conversation as they suck down the spicy shellfish. \nDo not worry, now that the sun is setting on crawfish season, I know a good place for crab.