How the West was won and French culture was forgotten

PARIS – During the course of the past 11 and a half weeks living in Paris, there are a few things I have learned Parisians simply cannot live without. The most crucial being cigarettes, dark-colored clothing and sitting at a cafe having drinks with a friend.

So when I read the article “Across France, Cafe Owners Are Suffering” on the homepage of the New York Times Web site, I was in shock.

According to the article, the effects of the global financial crisis coupled with a change in laws and the social habits of the younger generation has led to a major decrease in profits for cafe-bars and restaurant owners – not only in Paris, but all over France.

The smoking ban in bars, restaurants and cafes had already put a damper on business before the economic crisis hit. Before, patrons would usually finish a couple cups of coffee while polishing off a cigarette. But without a place to smoke, cafes in less touristic areas are looking even more barren.

The police are also cracking down on drunk driving, thanks to French President Nicholas Sarkozy, and the younger crowds – who, in an American twist, now drink to get drunk – would much rather get a bottle at the store and stay home to enjoy themselves rather than pay to be served at a cafe.

Before coming to Paris, every guide book I read never failed to mention how vital cafe life is to the city. You can’t say you’ve really experienced France until you sit in a cramped bar or cafe, people-watching and disputing political views while still respecting others’ ideas. Or so I thought.

How could the French just brush off such a crucial part of their culture? Even in a dire economic crisis, Americans are still going to the movies, because it provides a form of escapism from the troubles of everyday life. Then again, I should have known better than to compare French people to Americans.

I can’t help but believe that the Parisian cafe culture will never truly be phased out of their lifestyle. That would be like the English not having tea, or Americans not eating breakfast in the form of a bar in the car on the way to work – it is part of what defines them as a people.

Speaking of Americans, I can’t help but feel like that’s what French people are becoming more like. They’re not smoking as much in public places. They are opting for a sandwich on the go instead of sitting down to eat lunch. And their morning coffee is drunk at the office or en route in paper cups.

Not to mention, despite the plummeting business of cafe-bars and restaurants, every time I walk by a Starbucks or McDonald’s it’s busting with people.

What is going on here? Is there some covert operation by the American government to make French people more Americanized because they’re still bitter about “freedom fries”? Have the French decided Americans aren’t that bad after all and are trying out their lifestyle?

I have a feeling I’m looking too far into this. It’s just a phase. Soon enough when the economy is done rearing its ugly head and people get use to the feeling of money in their pockets again, I’m sure the cafe-bar/restaurant business will be booming, or at least holding steady once again.

In the mean time, I will do what I can to keep the ailing businesses alive. Anyone up for a coffee break?