City commemorates 4th-century bishop

Hundreds of people cram into the brick walls of the Basilica of Saint Ambrose as the smoke from the incense billows into the high ceilings of the church.

Outside people slosh through the wet ground of the park where vendor after vendor screams out, selling everything from knick-knacks to cannolis.

Dec. 7 marks the commemoration of the bishop of Milan during the 4th century – Saint Ambrose. His many contributions to the history and religious culture of the city make him Milan’s patron saint.

St. Ambrose day is a celebration that Milan can call its own and has continued to celebrate it for centuries in this way.

I sat at the back of the crowded church as the service began. A parade of white-garbed men walked through the aisles, swinging the incense in front of the bishop of Milan crowned with the mitre, the traditional tall white hat stitched with gold worn by Catholic bishops and priests.

I could barely see the point of his hat as he walked to the front of the church because I was surrounded by the people who came early enough to actually get one of the few seats and the ones standing alongside the edges of the walls.

The service began as the voices of the choir echoed as they sung through the Italian hymns. They recognized St. Ambrose throughout the service calling him the shepherd of the city during the homily and songs.

The day of the saint begins its celebrations in this serene way, but take one step outside and it is complete chaos.

An immense crowd pours into the piazza and browses among the innumerable stands from morning until night selling dresses, furniture, ethnic objects, furnishings, crafts, cakes and sweets, hot mulled wine and handmade clothing.

This market has an ancient tradition and has always been much loved by the children. Traditionally, at the Piazza del Cannone, children would yell out “O Bej, O Bej,”
meaning “Oh beautiful, Oh beautiful” in the local Milanese dialect, giving the festival its today’s traditional name.

At that time, the products on display were mostly flee-market items and food: the famous “Firon,” which are nothing more than roasted chestnuts stuck in long wires by the dozens.

Despite the rise of major industrialization in the city, this is proof of the survival of Italian tradition.