Column: The Owlery: where's the fish?

The Owlery is an establishment that defines itself by the clear, orange handwriting on the door: ‘Vegetarian Restaurant.’

Because of this, diners shouldn’t be confused.

But when I saw fish and chips offered on the menu, I didn’t understand. What was The Owlery hiding behind that careful orange sign?

As a vegetarian, I was skeptical. As a non-meat eater, I was hesitant.
But with the arrival of my meal, the difference between the door’s claim and the menu’s offering became very clear.

Tofu is bean curd made with coagulated soy milk, originally conceptualized in China.
There are a variety of types, and each kind harbors a rubbery, bland flavor that leaves one with the sensation of eating an eraser (albeit, an eraser with 10 grams of protein).
The Owlery’s recommended dish is the fish and chips, and it is served as fried tofu with fresh-cut fries and coleslaw.

Toby Foster, the joint owner and chef at The Owlery, attributes the omnivore categorization of his menu to his customers’ preference for specificity.

Following this philosophy, The Owlery prepares its interpretation of fish and chips in a classic English style.

They batter the bean curd, season with black pepper and deep fry to the point of failed recognition: hopefully the diner will forget they ordered that tofu curd thing.

Although I still knew I was eating fishless fish and chips, The Owlery’s skill with this dish erased my association of tofu with a plain taste.

The eraser-like consistency of tofu was transformed into a tender, silky filling nestled within the dish’s trademark fried exterior.

The fried batter provided a necessary contrast to the soft bean curd and overpowered its usual bland taste.

The breading was slightly under-seasoned, yet was made more flavorful once lemon and tartar sauce were added.

I still understood I was eating tofu, but I momentarily savored the ingredient I would normally hesitate to order.

The fish and chips were garnished with fresh-cut fries and coleslaw.
Both sides were fresh, but I found the portions a little big.

Aside from the fish and chips, The Owlery offers diners a Philly cheesesteak, fried chicken dinner and Reuben sandwich.

All are filled with either a tofu, seitan or tempeh meat substitute, which compensate for customers’ meatless preferences.

Foster has been a vegetarian since his sophomore year of high school, but he still misses the cooking of his youth.

He has not forgotten the taste of chicken strips or the bite of a BLT, and his memories of family dinners have manifested in The Owlery.

But behind the menu’s orange print, I still was served a bland taste of fried fish without the fish.