Local rock climbing groups come together to support private valley

Hanging from his fingertips and jamming his toes into the holds, Neal Sipahimalani dangled 30 feet above an anxious, screaming crowd.

All he needed to do was leap from his position on the wall to a large hold several feet  above him, clip into the next bolt and climb the several remaining feet of the route across the ceiling. Then he would win the 2011 Moves for Muir competition.  

Other climbers watched from the ground as Sipahimalani executed a dyno, a term in rock climbing referring to a dynamic move that requires the use of momentum.

There was a communal gasp as he flew through the air and then an instantaneous outburst as he landed his move, hanging from one large hold on the ceiling.

The Midwestern rock climbing community came together Saturday to participate in the Moves for Muir competition, a fundraiser for the Muir Valley in Kentucky at the Hoosier Heights Indoor Rock Climbing Gym.

More than 130 climbers participated in roped and bouldering events throughout the day, and more than 35 individuals came as spectators.

“It’s a fun competition because you know everybody,” said Jordan Garvey, a finalist in the sport-climbing category. “Even though a lot of the people that were here were from Bloomington, Indianapolis, Kentucky and Ohio, we still know everybody because the climbing community is a really tight-knit group.”

The Muir Valley is an outdoor climbing facility in an area of Kentucky known as the Red River Gorge.

“I don’t think you can overstate the significance of the Red River Gorge,” said Joe Anderson, owner of Hoosier Heights. “It’s the world-class climbing area for the Midwest, and it’s certainly one of the best sport-climbing areas in the country.”

Eight years ago, passionate climbing couple Rick and Liz Weber purchased several hundred acres of land in the gorge and opened Muir Valley.

Since then, Muir Valley has become the most popular subset of the Red River Gorge, bringing in more than 30,000 climbers this year alone.

“As close as outdoor climbing can be catered to you — it is at Muir Valley,” senior Sean Counceller said. “There’s stuff easy enough for a first-timer all the way up to people who have been climbing their whole life.”

There are now more than 350 climbing routes established in the valley, as well as a highly developed infrastructure, network of trails and safety system.

The Webers are to thank for it all, donating their time and money to the development of the property.

“The primary upkeep, maintenance and buildup that they’ve done there has been out of their own pockets and the generosity that they want to put toward the climbing community,” Anderson said. “We’re trying to step in by having our big annual fundraiser for them that hopefully will raise a goodly sum for them to use toward the Muir Valley.”

Rick Weber said they knew taking on the property would require large amounts of funding, but it was something they wanted to do for the community. He said his concern is for the next generation of climbers who will utilize the valley.

“We wanted to start an effort of empowering people to take a responsible position and look at the expenses and realize what it’s going to take after we’re gone,” Weber said. “If you guys want this thing to continue, you have to start thinking now and not sometime down the road about how you’re going to support this.”

Anderson and Hoosier Heights Manager Isaac Heacock worked with local sponsors to make the Moves for Muir competition as beneficial as possible.

Local companies, such as BloomingFoods and Bloomington Brewing Company, donated refreshments. Other companies, such as Climb Tech, The Element, La Sportiva and Evolv shoes, provided their support, as well as items for a silent auction and competition prizes.

Anyone was allowed to compete. Participants ranged in age and skill level from beginners to advanced.

Counceller, the coach of the Hoosier Heights youth prep team, had his entire group compete in the event to familiarize them with the atmosphere and to encourage them to support Muir Valley.

Garvey, also a coach to one of the competitive youth teams,  faced one of his students, Simon Schonemann-Poppeliers, in the final round of the roped competition.

Schonemann-Poppeliers is a 15-year-old student at Bloomington’s New Tech High School and is currently the captain of Garvey’s youth team.

In the final round of the competition, Schonemann-Poppeliers climbed higher than Garvey.

“At first, I was really bummed because I knew he’d beaten me, and I’m a very competitive person,” Garvey said. “But then I knew that it meant a lot to him, and then I was just super proud. He is a really talented and strong climber, and watching his progression from when I first started working with him to this point now is too cool.”

Dozens stayed after the competition to enjoy beer, food off the grill, a bonfire and camping on the property.

“Hoosier Heights has been here a long time, and what we care about more than our walls, more than our routes and more than our floors is the community,” Anderson said. “I think that is what has made us as strong as we are now and will make us stronger in the future.”