Column: Falling for fall - New York Fashion Week 2012

With New York Fashion Week in full swing, it’s time to take note of what we have in store for fall 2012.

We’re only a few days in, but the inspiration is bursting at the seams — literally.

From artful layering at Gary Graham to cozy knee-length knits at Yigal Azrouël, the fashion world has been in a fall frenzy. A very welcome frenzy, but a frenzy nonetheless.

In today’s brief breakdown of the very best (so far), I’ll start with one of my favorite designers: Alice + Olivia.

Far from “high fashion” or couture standards, Alice + Olivia always delivers collections that are both covetable and extremely wearable.
This season was no different.

Alice + Olivia always uses unexpected combinations, such as sequins with moto jackets or cargo pants with fur coats, and this collection speaks to that juxtaposed philosophy.

It’s feminine yet sexy, strong yet subdued. Eye-catching patterns on emerald silk lent some necessary drama, but fur accents, dazzling sequins and Peter Pan collars maintained Alice + Olivia’s intrinsic femininity.

On a different note, Theyskens’ Theory erred on the masculine side. The palette was nearly all black and gray, with a few dashes of muted mustard and burgundy for good measure.

But the collection was far from dreary — fashion-philes will know that the Olivier Theyskens girl rarely steps out in blinding hues or clashing prints.

Instead, leather jumpsuits, ombré corduroy pants and chiffon maxi skirts kept things fresh and interesting, while uncomplicated shapes tied everything together.

Jenni Kayne offered a satisfying mixture of tweed, neon and classic prep — things that really shouldn’t work but miraculously do.

Inspired by “a proper English gentleman’s hunting wardrobe,” the emphasis was on sleek, menswear-inspired shapes — with a twist.

Short suits and wool overcoats felt just stodgy enough, and pops of fluorescent yellow, digitized plaids and feathered mini skirts added a dose of whimsy.

Nothing feels too serious or too trendy, and every single piece can be mixed and matched to create countless ensembles. This isn’t a new development. Kayne has always placed a strong emphasis on her separates, and this season’s offerings go above and beyond.

Perhaps the most recognizable name on this list is Marc Jacobs, and as usual, his collection does not disappoint.

His fantastical, over-the-top line could make even the harshest critic fall in love with the very spirit of fashion all over again.

Absurd furry hats, countless layers (upon layers, upon layers ... ), kaleidoscope prints, bedazzled pilgrim shoes and shimmering stripes are the result of Jacobs’ effort to combine old-timey Plymouth Rock with the artistic street style we’re all so fond of today. 

Though I can’t exactly see myself (or anyone) wearing the collection’s head-to-toe looks, I can’t help but love them.

They’re a bit excessive, yes, but Jacobs’ goal was to capture the latest hell-if-I-care disregard toward fashion.

Street style photographers such as Tommy Ton and Scott Schuman have been documenting this new phase for the past few years, but no designer has really used street style as inspiration until now.

Women today are true fashion influencers.

They aren’t focusing on looking flawlessly put together anymore. In fact, it’s quite the opposite. They’re after a unique, unexpected look that’s all their own. They’re mixing prints, piling on layers, wearing gigantic sunglasses and generally doing everything possible to be ironic.

Only the strongest women can pull off these hodgepodge ensembles, and this hearkens back to the true function of fashion: It’s about expressing yourself, making a statement and standing out.

Marc Jacobs has certainly reinforced that powerful idea.

­—emfarra@indiana.edu