Details in the fabric

The t-shirt has possibly the most contradictory reputation an article of clothing can have.

What was once pictured as that baseball tee you stole from your high school boyfriend has now been made into Hermès crocodile and chiffon prints that go for over $90,000.

The t-shirt is in a state of refinement and merits careful reconsideration. Here are some of the dirty details that come with this new versatilitee — pun intended.

1. Fabric & Stitching

Using 100 percent cotton is as classic as it gets, but don’t feel obligated. Fabrics not only affect the feel of the t-shirt, but how you feel in them. If you want a shirt that’s softer to the touch, which also results in a lighter, more intimate fit, consider blends with rayon and silk. Polyester is often a go-to mate for cotton, and though it creates a more durable, wrinkle-resistant, color-retaining fabric, it can often feel less comfortable. As far as stitching goes, detailing is crucial. Consider the color and visibility of the stitch. Also, beware of raw hems. Though common, they can also lead to your sleeves rolling after washing.

2. Color

Color is meant to be played with. Tie-dye, however, is a toy I suggest leaving in the DIY memory box. Instead, consider big, bold color patches like the ones we saw trending this spring with designers such as Christian LaCroix. This look not only has a slightly nostalgic nineties Brooklyn hip-hop feel, but invokes a modern art aesthetic with Piet Mondrian-like cobalt blue and yellow blocks.

3. Tees that Talk

Rule No. 1: don’t be a Chatty Cathy. Clubs around the U.S. have started to add to their dress codes that Affliction, True Religion, Tap Out and other such designs and logos are not allowed. This shouldn’t have to be said, but I’ll reiterate. Even if you aren’t in a club on a Saturday night, they’re tacky. In fact, any tee that has a brand name posted like a billboard across your chest should be avoided. We didn’t need to see LL Cool J on Late Night last week in an LL Cool J graphic tee. With that said, a few graphic tees (not the ones with crude or juvenile humor) can still serve admirably in grassroots activism. But pick your battles, or get a blog.

4. Inves-T-ing

It’s true, the fact a single Hermès croc tee could equal 25,000 Hanes basics is outrageous. But then consider this. A Hanes Nano T-shirt goes for $10 — only one third the price of American Apparel’s Le New Big Tee, ladies. A Hanes Signature T-shirt is $20, which means you could get two for the price of one Ben Sherman’s Antique Garment V-neck, gentlemen. And though those rates still might make some of you hesitant, check the details mentioned earlier and you’ll find you’re paying for fabric percentages and more specific fits. It will simply last longer and be something you subconsciously take better care of.

5. Crossing the Tees

When you have a good tee, you have to treat it like one by completing the look. For guys, this will come primarily in the form of jackets. Pair looser necklines with blazers and do a casual half-tuck with a statement belt such as Lacoste. For the statement tees that can stand alone, consider a complimentary (opposite the color spectrum) pant paired with brown loafers and maybe hanging Ray Bans at the point of any V-necks. Ladies, blazers go as well. Always. Looser fits like ModCloth’s pattern tees can be tucked into waist-high patterned skirts for full looks. Boxy oversized color tees can be accented with long thin necklaces or stacked chunky bracelets in gold.

After all, though versatile, there’s still an element of nostalgic “simplicitee” that needs to be respected.